Princess Curio Cabinet

This is a custom curio cabinet that was built back in November 2005. It's an accessory for our Castle loft. It features glass doors and a two tone finish. The color was the most difficult parts on completing this project. Each edge had to be hand painted the accent color

Size: 48”w x 67”h x 16”d (Custom size is available)

Wood: MDF and Maple

Finish: Pigmented Lacquer/Latex accent color.

You can watch us build projects like this live from our Current Projects page at wwbeds and poggyskids.com Also at the site photographs are posted each day of our work.

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Angle Bedroom Suite

This is a bed that was built a long time ago. It is from the kids furniture site. I started with the storage bed headboard and designed everything else from there. The angle concept of the headboard was transferred to the chest and desk pedestal. If I remember correctly, the customer choose the chrome feet.

The wood is maple with a clear coat finish only.

This was a fun project. I wish I could do more like this.

For more building pictures see my shop page link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. See what we are doing live:

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Custom Corner Desk

This is a desk that was built to match a bed that I built for a customer in June (see example). Actually I built the bed for their home builder. The customer wanted a matching desk.

Because of the space problems between a wall and window, I had to adjust my normal depth of the desk. When dealing with angles small changes can effect a lot of different areas. I put all the measurements in a spreadsheet and entered formulas in for all the variables. When I changed the depth, I see how if effects the spacing in the center. I played with the numbers until I came up with good ratio.

Normally I don't build my raised panel sides. I outsource them. I built them this time because I didn’t know the depth of the overall desk until too close to the due date. This desk was completed in August 2011

Hudson Bay Murphy Bed Ebony Finsh

More pictures of this bed can be found by clicking here.

This is the first time I’ve used the Minwax Ebony stain by itself. I’ve used it in combination with a dye to achieve my cappichino finsh, but never alone and on oak. This bed was built in February 2011. It is a version called the Hudson Bay Murphy bed. It is the standard Alpine version with some added moldings added to the face. This is that free add-on plans that I send with my do-it-yourself murphy bed kit.

This one I also added a couple 18” bookcases. They have a door at the bottom and adjustable shelves at the top. I added lights to both the bookcase and the bed section.

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Baseball Wall Unit

This may look like one of the many murphy beds that I build but it is not. It is a standard baseball bed with a wall unit. I took the headboard of the baseball bed and surrounded it with a couple bookcases and light bridge. It was completed in February 2011.

The bookcases are built just like the ones I use on the murphy bed with the full length door and a couple drawers at the bottom. If you ever wonder why the drawers of this style bookcase never start at the bottom, it has a cubby hole. It’s there so there is not interference with the lower hinge and drawers. I think it give a nice little effect. You need somewhere slightly out-of-site to store them dirty cleats.

It is built mainly from maple with some MDF. The finish is pigmented lacquers.

The lights are controlled by a touch dimmer at the top of the headboard.

Here are some of the true Murphy bed styles: Yankee's Special Edition, Vintage Style

For more building pictures see my Current Projects link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. See what we are doing live:


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Contempo Murphy Bed

This is a murphy bed completed in December 2009. It is a new style, which turned out to be a popular one. I’ve build a few of these last month. It is a real simple one with a contemporary look I call the Contempo. This one has just one bookcase.
Goto web page: Contempo Murphy Bed
Write-up at Lumberjocks: Write-up

Tip Tuesday: Buy “Solid” wood

Some associate veneers as being low quality and if you truly want quality go all solid. Really the opposite it true. Veneers got a bad rap around the 60’s when cheap furniture was introduced into the market. There was delaminating, which is the lifting of the veneer, because of a bad process and gules.

What is veneer?
Veneer is a thinly sliced piece of wood glued onto a substrate or a another, usually manufactured, wood like MDF or plywood. With today’s technology these slices can be as thin as 1/64th of an inch.

Isn’t solid wood better?
It all depends. Each has its benefits and bad points. Solid wood contains mosture and will expand and contract with changes in the humidity and seasons. For this reason, usually we don’t use lumber over about 6” wide. If we do we may have cracking and warping. We will glue them up into larger panels alternating the grain to lessen the effect. Even though the seam is so tight and sanded you can‘t tell where it is, but the grain pattern doesn’t flow smoothly and continuously from one board to the other. This is where veneers are better. They can be glued on a stable substrate. This will keep the wood movement down to a minimum and less likely to warp, crack, or cup. Also the grain usually appears to be continuous. The veneer is either rolled off the log to produce one continuous piece (rotary cut) and another lay-up technique that make it appear as one piece. Another one is book matching. They will slice the veneer and open them up like a book. This produces mirror images of each other.

What about the delaminating (veneer coming off)?
Most of the time that is not a problem. With the better glues and processes you rarely find this problem. Most veneer that furniture builders buy sheets that are already connected to a substrate in the form of 4 x 8 sheets of plywood. The are pressed on at 2800 lbs per square inch. I have had some import plywood come in that has delaminated. I now only buy domestic.

More benefits to veneer:
Slicing so thin you can get lots of sheet of veneer from a single tree, thus yielding a lot more then with solid. The substrate can be made from parts that were normally discarded or of a faster growing tree. This is better for our environment and supplies for the future.

You can use an exotic woods in the designs and not break the bank. I built a table with Waterfall Bubinga that I wouldn’t be about to do without a veneer (price). Also curving wood. Veneer is the best for that too. My wood boat bed has a curved front which couldn’t be done easily with solid lumber.

Veneers are everywhere. Most likely all if not most of your furniture contains veneers. Some of the most expensive furniture I’ve seen has been MDF with a veneer. MDF is a manmade material made from resin and wood particles. It is different than the true particle board which I would stay away from. MDF can be shaped, routered and is a very smooth surface to veneer on or to paint.